Guides - Ray's Wood Signs

Beginning

Tools

Wood

Sign Designs

Methods

Tools

Materials

Glue-Ups

Gorilla glue, Titebond = outdoor projects

Pine panel boards use the same process BUT watch cupping on new stock. They may crack under clamps

When laminating backing - brad the corners to keep the laminations together and corners square

1. Run through the table saw or planer to get one edge 90 deg.
2. Flip the board and run through for the width of boards
3. Set up work area and clamps

Use wax paper, tape on to protect clamps from glue etc.

4. Lay out on top of the clamps and mark orientation on ends
5. Draw index marks several places
6. Stand boards one at a time on edge and apply glue

Make sure edges and entire length is covered well

7. Clamp one side and draw up snug, not tight
8. Clamp other side that is farthest away from the first clamp just snug
9. Clamp in the middle between the end clamps
10. Lay a caul (piece of wood) across the entire width and clamp with a block under the glued up pieces
11. Tighten clamps one by one, tightening the caul last
12. Clamp ends to prevent cupping
13. wipe off excess glue

Techniques

1. When plugging in always assume the switch is ON

High Torque warning: Some routers have quite a jerk on startup

"Soft Start" routers are the new norm. Be aware of older model hard starts

2. When turning ON ground the router to the board or your arms to the bench
3. All routers: Ground the router to the table when turning OFF
4. Do not set the router top on the table while it is still turning. It will suck dust into the motor
5. Work toward you
6. 2 hands on the handles AND fingers on the workpiece
7. Resin bubbles? Simply blow on it or use a heat gun on low to spread colors and remove bubbles.

Routing long straight

1. around edges and boxes:
   • Select the bit depth
   • Sink the bit into each corner or each end
   • Turn the router off

   If the router is turning do not set it upside down; it sucks up sawdust

   • Set the bit into one hole and turn the curved edge of the base plate out
   • Move a straight edge up to the curved edge of the base plate and clamp the straight edge

   The curved edge of the base plate riding on the straight edge offers less resistance

   • Place the router bit in the other hole and place the straight edge up against the base plate
   • Rout between the holes

Practice These

1. Circles
   • O, Q, P, R, D etc.
   • Feel the grain on the circle
   • Stay away from the lines and edges on the first pass
2. Straight lines
   • A, E, I, T, F, H
   • Do not stop. Lift out for small letters and end details
3. Angles
   • A, W,Y,X,V,M,N
   • Proper hand positions; Fingers on the handles and on the board guiding the cut.

Carving Liner bit doing fine lines

Backgrounds: 60, 90, power carving, dimples, big circles 3/4 - 90, small circles 1/2 - 90

Stipple effect 45 - 45

Edges, profiles, aged (rope border), comic, scallops (deep enough)

Sign shapes

Straight lines, curves, circles

Colors, dyes, pints, inks

Organize

1. Pattern folders / cardboard holder sprayed with the pattern
2. Pictures fit into a sheep protector
3. Font print sheets fit into sheet protectors and a binder

Palm vs Full Size

Worn bearings are not for fine detail work; shaft has runout and is floating

Patterns and fine detail work need top quality bearings for longevity

1. Larger routers are great for cleanouts with flat bits.
2. Use the bigger routers for larger 1/4 and all 1/2 in shank bits

Standard backgrounds use 90 Deg. for cleanout. 90 is also used for outset and very large inset letter cleanouts.

3. Work from the center out to support 1/2 of the base resting on a flat surface

Chuck the bit at about 1/2" to keep the motor away from the base.

4. Keep Bits Clean
   • Gunk spray removes resins and pitch
   • Use a dremmel brass brush - chuck bit in the router (unplugged) to hold it still